![]() ![]() How to Check for an Exhaust Manifold Leak Mating Surfaces on the Exhaust Manifold Corrosion and black and white coating on exhaust manifold mating surface Cracks or imperfections in the metal can be heard as exhaust fumes escape during this process, and also explains why the sound may disappear as the metal heats up. When metal gets cold, it tends to contract, and when metal gets hot, it expands. A loosely secured exhaust manifold or manifold gasket, or a cracked exhaust manifold can create a loud ticking noise under acceleration and usually when the vehicle is cold. Listen for noises at the joints or seams, working your way up to the exhaust manifold.Įxhaust manifold leaks are most heard when the engine or the exhaust is cold. Assuming they’re not hot, feel along the top and the bottom of the exhaust pipes for air escaping. Have an assistant place a gloved hand over the tailpipe and work your way down the exhaust with a gloved hand placed over it without touching it. Have an Assistant Cover the Tail Pipe and Inspect the Exhaust for Leaks.If there is no pressure, there is a strong possibility there’s a leak in the exhaust. Here is the link.Cover the end of the tailpipe with a glove over your hand and feel for pressure. Calyx is cheaper and would last longer, I used the High Temp coating on mine and it still looks nice too. If your exhaust manifold is ok and you are reusing it, it might be a good idea to clean it up with some High Temp coating or Calyx Coating from Eastwood before you re-assemble. Do not bother with a hardware store, those bolts are not designed for this application and may end up backing out from expansion/contraction. I would still go with the MSA kit that ZMadnez referenced earlier. $50 is too steep, unless of course they are stainless or have some other specialized feature. I have reused spacers in the past if they were in good shape, but use new ones if they are available. More than likely what will happen is that you will back the entire stud out of the head when you are loosening the nuts (but that's ok because you should be replacing these anyway). Looks like youre on the right track! :laugh: To answer your earlier question, I have broken some of the studs off but if you use lots of WD-40 you should be fine. PM me if you have any other questions, I can give you my phone # if you need. Be sure to coat all of the threads with Anti-Cease compound as you reassemble everything. Reassemble by locking two nuts together on each stud and torqueing it in. If the stud is broken off way back in the head, then it is Helicoil time! (Drilling out takes some skill to stay level and not drift into the softer aluminum). Just back the stud out by tapping with the chisel - believe me it will come out (Lefty = Loosey). NEVER EVER go to all of this labor without replacing ALL of the intake and exhaust studs! If you have a broken stud(most likely #6 near the firewall), then you can try to chisel it out with a small chisel and a hammer. If you were thinking of a Header -now is the time to do it. ![]() Now once the intake is off and you should inspect the exhaust for leaks cracks, etc. There is a bolt under a little cover in the center of the intake -get that one first! Sounds like a pain, but if your are patient it will come out fine. You will need an Mechanic's Mirror and a couple of long 3/8" extensions so that you can see and remove the nuts that are UNDER the intake. Start by disconnecting the EGR piping FIRST, use a giant Cresent Wrench or Jumbo Crows Foot for this. Soak all nuts/bolts on intake/Exhaust with WD-40 the night before, then soak again right before you attempt. I have tackled this problem a couple of times here are my suggestions:įIRST - Order ALL of the Studs, Nuts, Washers, Spacers and Gaskets from Nissan or Whomever BEFORE you begin this work, this way you will have them on hand for the job. ![]()
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